Phytochemical and bioactivity profiling correlations of Greek flora towards the assessment of skin-health promoting properties

Cosmeceuticals are considered skin care products that go beyond mere beautification and claim to have medicinal or drug-like benefits [1]. Natural ingredients used in cosmeceutical formulations originate from a variety of different sources, as the possibilities are limitless when it comes to plant species. As Greece is one of the biodiversity hotspots, its endemic flora could be expected to provide new promising agents [2]. Thus, the aim of this study was the evaluation of different plant materials towards their cosmeceutical related properties. More than 50 plant species were collected and extracted using Accelerated Solvent Extraction (ASE) as well as Supercritical Fluid Extraction (SFE-CO₂). The derived extracts were subjected to phytochemical (LC-HRMS/MS and HPTLC) and biological screening. Specifically, they were evaluated for possible tyrosinase, elastase and collagenase inhibitory activity as well as cytotoxic and anti-ageing properties. Furthermore, the antioxidant and photoprotective properties in cellular models were assessed together with anti-melanogenesis profile in zebrafish model. Based on the responses to the different targets, the extracts were compared, prioritised and correlated with their chemical compositions. Amongst others Juniperus turbinata, Achillea millefolium and Citrus medica are rich in compounds such as gallotannins, flavonoid glycosides and phenolic acids, and revealed to be promising leads for cosmeceuticals development.

Conflict of Interest

The authors declare no conflict of interest.

Funding ERDF, “RESEARCH–CREATE- INNOVATE”, CosmAGE (project code Τ2ΕΔΚ-02583)

• References

• 1 Draelos ZD.. Cosmeceuticals: Efficacy and Influence on Skin Tone. Dermatol Clin 2014; 32: 137-143
• 2 Sklirou AD, Angelopoulou MT, Argyropoulou A. et al. Phytochemical study and in vitro screening focusing on the anti-aging features of various plants of the greek flora. Antioxidants 2021; 10

Publikationsverlauf

Artikel online veröffentlicht:
16. November 2023