Planta Med 2016; 82 - OA2
DOI: 10.1055/s-0036-1578572

Ayurvedic Herbs As Sources Of Cosmetic Ingredients

CK Angerhofer 1, P Kiehne 1, J Maroko 1, T Thompson 1, K Upadhyay 2, V Upadhyay 2
  • 1Aveda Corporation, 4000 Pheasant Ridge Drive, Blaine, MN 55449
  • 2Maharshi Bhardwaj Clinic & Research Centre, 136 Mehtan, Peeth Bazar, Jwalapur, and (Hardwar) 249407

Herbs have been employed for health and for cosmetic purposes throughout human history. As one of the ancient traditional systems of medicine, Ayurveda has documented topical use of herbs for treating and beautifying the skin in primary Vedic literature as well as more modern pharmacopoeias. Contemporary research has corroborated the activity of many of these herbs, and a wide range of ingredients is now available for use in cosmetic formulation ranging from minimally-refined extracts to purified compounds. As the quality of these ingredients varies significantly, so will their expected efficacy for supporting and enhancing the appearance of skin, scalp or hair when incorporated into finished products. Investigating the sourcing of plants, their extraction and processing is an important aspect of assuring quality and consistency in meeting ingredient specifications. Phytochemical analysis and bioassay are also critical steps to establish and assure an optimal, functional ingredient profile. Several Ayurvedic plants with demonstrated cosmetic applications will be discussed to illustrate these concepts, including Centella asiatica, Phyllanthus emblica, Punica granatum, and Zingiber officinale.