The purpose of this study was to develop sunless tanning products from natural source,
avoiding skin risk from sunbath and synthetic chemical. The Maillard or browning reaction,
to form brown-black compounds called melanoidins was the principal of this product.
Chlorogenic acid, which was extracted from green coffee beans, was brought to the
change the colour of keratin in stratum corneum. It was studied that concentration
of reacting color directly varied to chlorogenic acid concentration (the more concentration
of chlorogenic acid, the more keratin color changed, from light brown to dark brown,
with 95% confidence). The green coffee beans used in the study were Robusta (Coffea canephora Pierre ex A. Froehner, syn. C. robusta L. Linden), and were extracted with a mixture of isopropanol and water (60:40). The
extract yield was 29%. It was analysed by UV-spectrophotometry and characterised by
NMR-spectrophotometry. Cream with good consistency was formulated with 5% w/w chlorogenic
acid, 25% w/w palm oil. Tween 60 and Span 60 of 6.1:3.9 was emulsifying agent, and
other necessity. The physical evaluation, accelerated stability study, and efficacy
of tanning effect to bovine skin were performed. In conclusion, sunless tanning product
from green coffee beans was potentiated to be continuously studied as a commercialised
product.
Keywords: skin tanning, sunless tanning products, Maillard reaction, keratin, chlorogenic acid,
green coffee beans