Processing, analytical caracteristics and skin anti-ageing properties of a purified sea buckthorn extract
Sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L. – Elaeagnaceae) is a spiny shrub native to Europe and Asia. The entire plant has been used for centuries in traditional medicine, but lately the interest has been focused on the berries, particularly for their nutritional value. They are rich in organic acids (mainly malic acid), carotenoids, phytosterols and flavonoïds. The berries are processed into 3 types of extracts: the pulp juice for the food market, pulp and seed CO2 extracts mainly for the cosmetic market. We focused on the potential use of sea buckthorn juice in cosmetic application, particularly for its organic acids. The juice commercialized for food products is difficult to use in cosmetics because of its odour and colour impacts on cosmetics products. In order to lessen this problem, we used ion exchange resins to purify the organic acids from a commercial sea buckthorn juice. The organic acids were analysed by HPLC – UV. After ion exchange resin treatment, the organic acids represent the majority of the soluble solids present in the juice. Malic acid concentration is about 3 times higher than in the previous commercial juice. Quinic acid is also present in important concentration, along with ascorbic acid. In addition to the organic acids, the treated juice still contains some flavonoïds. The anti-ageing activities of this organic acid rich sea buckthorn extract were demonstrated on dermal cells.