Planta Med 2008; 74 - SL22
DOI: 10.1055/s-0028-1083902

Research for plant active ingredients of cosmetic interest: Innovation process for a cosmetic company

S Milesi 1, C Lucas 1, M Marchant 1, C Laperdrix 1, C Lubrano 1, JR Robin 1
  • 1YVES ROCHER, International Research Center, 101 quai Rossevelt, 92100 Issy-Les-Moulineaux, France

Plant active ingredients research is one of the driving innovation keys for a cosmetic company requiring naturality, efficiency and safety.

Process for developping plant active ingredients is complex. It is necessary to build up and validate numerous parameters such as ecological plant status, culture and supply chain, extraction and purification of active molecules, in vivo and in vitro efficiency assessement. This also includes the toxicological validation of these new extracts, as well as their regulation and patent status.

To lead to the creation of new and successful plant active ingredients, it is necessary to possess a double expertise: on the one hand, a laboratory dedicated to plant biology, phytochemistry and processes of extraction. On the other hand, a laboratory specialised in skin cellular and cutaneous biology. Moreover, scientific collaborations with research labs, NGO and hightech companies can also be engaged, notably for plant culture, biotechnological transformation or structural analyses.

Precise examples of anti-aging or slimming actives, developped in our labs are presented.