Fingerkrafttraining für Kletterer: Anleitung zur Verwendung eines Trainingsboards

If you want to improve your climbing, you must train your finger strength. There are various ways to do this. Experienced climber Eva López-Rivera explains what you have to know when training with the hangboard.

Publication History

Article published online:
24 August 2021

• Literatur / References

• 1 Androulakis-Korakakis P, Fisher JP, Steele J. The minimum effective training dose required to increase 1RM strength in resistance-trained men: A systematic review and meta-analysis. Sport Med 2020; 50: 751-765 DOI: 10.1007/s40279-019-01236-0.
• 2 Baláš J, Pecha O, J. Martin A. et al. Hand-arm strength and endurance as predictors of climbing performance. Eur J Sport Sci 2012; 12: 16-25
• 3 Bärtschi N, Scheibler A, Schweizer A. Symptomatic epiphyseal sprains and stress fractures of the finger phalanges in adolescent sport climbers. Hand Surg Rehabil 2019; 38: 251-256 DOI: 10.1016/j.hansur.2019.05.003.
• 4 Couppé C, Kongsgaard M, Aagaard P. et al. Habitual loading results in tendon hypertrophy and increased stiffness of the human patellar tendon. J Appl Physiol 2008; 105 (03) 805-810
• 5 Fryer S, Stoner L, Stone K. et al. Forearm muscle oxidative capacity index predicts sport rock-climbing performance. Eur J Appl Physiol 2016; 116: 1479-1484 DOI: 10.1007/s00421-016-3403-1.
• 6 Grant S, Shields C, Fitzpatrick V. et al. Climbing-specific finger endurance: A comparative study of intermediate rock climbers, rowers and aerobically trained individuals. J Sports Sci 2003; 21: 621-630 DOI: 10.1080/0264041031000101953.
• 7 Grønhaug G, Norberg M. First overview on chronic injuries in sport climbing: Proposal for a change in reporting of injuries in climbing. BMJ Open Sport Exerc Med 2016; 2: e000083 DOI: 10.1136/bmjsem-2015-000083.
• 8 Hahn F, Erschbaumer M, Allenspach P. et al. Physiological bone responses in the fingers after more than 10 years of high-level sport climbing: Analysis of cortical parameters. Wilderness Environ Med 2012; 23: 31-36 DOI: 10.1016/j.wem.2011.12.006.
• 9 Hochholzer T, Schöffl VR. Epiphyseal fractures of the finger middle joints in young sport climbers. Wilderness Environ Med 2005; 16: 139-142
• 10 Hulin BT, Gabbett TJ, Caputi P. et al. Low chronic workload and the acute:chronic workload ratio are more predictive of injury than between-match recovery time: a two-season prospective cohort study in elite rugby league players. Br J Sports Med 2016; 50: 1008-1012 DOI: 10.1136/bjsports-2015-095364.
• 11 Lauersen JB, Andersen TE, Andersen LB. et al. Strength training as superior, dose-dependent and safe prevention of acute and overuse sports injuries: A systematic review, qualitative analysis and meta-analysis. Br J Sport Med 2018; 52: 1557-1563 DOI: 10.1136/bjsports-2018-099078.
• 12 López-Rivera E, González-Badillo JJ. Comparison of the effects of three hangboard strength and endurance training programs on grip endurance in sport climbers. J Hum Kinet 2019; 66: 183-193 DOI: 10.2478/hukin-2018-0057.
• 13 López-Rivera E, González-Badillo JJ. The effects of two maximum grip strength training methods using the same effort duration and different edge depth on grip endurance in elite climbers. Sport Technol 2012; 5: 1-11
• 14 Lum ZC, Park L. Rock climbing injuries and time to return to sport in the recreational climber. J Orthop 2019; 16: 361-363 DOI: 10.1016/j.jor.2019.04.001.
• 15 Parkkari J, Kujala UM, Kannus P. Is it possible to prevent sports injuries? Review of controlled clinical trials and recommendations for future work. Sport Med 2001; 31: 985-995 311403 [pii]
• 16 Pozzi A, Pivato G, Pegoli L. Hand injury in rock climbing: Literature review. J Hand Surg Asian-Pacific Vol 2016; 21: 13-17 DOI: 10.1142/S2424835516400038.
• 17 Schöffl V, Popp D, Küpper T. et al. Injury trends in rock climbers: Evaluation of a case series of 911 injuries between 2009 and 2012. Wilderness Environ Med 2015; 26: 62-67 DOI: 10.1016/j.wem.2014.08.013.
• 18 Schweizer A. Sport climbing from a medical point of view. Swiss Med Wkly 2012; 142: 1-9 DOI: 10.4414/smw.2012.13688.
• 19 Schreiber T, Philippe A, Burkhardt S. et al. Connective tissue adaptations in the fingers of performance sport climbers. Eur J Sport Sci 2015; 1391: 1-7 DOI: 10.1080/17461391.2015.1048747.
• 20 Watts PB. Physiology of difficult rock climbing. Eur J Appl Physiol 2004; 91: 361-372 DOI: 10.1007/s00421-003-1036-7.