Der diurnale Rhythmus der Haut: Mythos oder Realität?

Zusammenfassung

Hintergrund Bisher weisen nur wenige Studien auf tageszeitabhängige Rhythmen des transepidermalen Wasserverlustes (TEWL), der Talgproduktion und des pH-Wertes hin. Detailliertere Beschreibungen des Hautbarriere-Rhythmus’ könnten für die Wahl des richtigen Zeitpunktes der dermalen Applikation von pharmazeutischen und kosmetischen Wirkstoffen von großer Bedeutung sein. Es ist denkbar, dass eine Optimierung der Wirkung oder Verträglichkeit dermatologischer Behandlungen erreicht werden kann. Somit ist es Ziel dieser Studie, den diurnalen Rhythmus der Hautbarriereparameter Hautrötung, transepidermaler Wasserverlust (TEWL), Stratum corneum-Hydratation, mechanische Eigenschaften, pH-Wert und Sebum zu erfassen.

Methoden Insgesamt 24 hautgesunde Probandinnen (21 – 39 Jahre) wurden innerhalb von 12 Stunden in einem 4-Stunden-Rhythmus an den Wangen und an der Stirn anhand biophysikalischer Messverfahren untersucht.

Ergebnisse Die Tageszeit wirkt sich auf die Barrierefunktion der Haut aus. Der mittlere Erythem-Wert ist nachmittags signifikant höher als morgens. Anhand der Datenanalyse ist zu erkennen, dass der TEWL-Mittelwert sich abends statistisch sehr signifikant gegenüber dem Mittelwert morgens unterscheidet.

Schlussfolgerung Die Erkenntnisse über die tageszeitliche Veränderung der Barrierefunktion können Aufschluss über ideale Zeitfenster verschiedener Kosmetikbehandlungen geben. Somit bietet z. B. ein erhöhter TEWL am Abend aufgrund der Permeabilität eine bessere Absorption von Wirkstoffen mit höherem Molekulargewicht.

Abstract

Background So far, only a limited number of studies have assessed the diurnal rhythm of skin barrier function. However, a more detailed knowledge of diurnal changes in important skin barrier parameters such as transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin erythema, skin hydration, skin pH, skin sebum and mechanical properties of epidermis and dermis could be of great importance in choosing the right time of dermal application for pharmaceutical and cosmetic agents and in optimizing efficacy and tolerability of dermatocosmetic treatments. Thus, the aim of this study is to investigate the diurnal rhythm of important skin barrier parameters using evaporimetry, mexametry, corneometry, pH meter, sebumetry and cutometry.

Methods A total of 24 healthy test persons (21 – 39 years) was examined four times within a 12 hour period of time on cheeks and forehead using the above mentioned biophysical devices.

Results There was statistically significant influence of time on skin barrier function. While the mean erythema level is significantly higher in the afternoon than in the morning, TEWL reaches highest values in the evening hours as compared to all other timepoints assessd. pH, skin hydration and viscoelastic properties do not change significantly during the day.

Conclusion These findings, even if done on a limited number of subjects, provide important information about the ideal time windows for dermatocosmetic treatments as well as for the application of specific cosmetic actives. Thus, the morning hours might offer an optimal time for chemical peels or microneedling procedures due to the low erythema value while the evening hours seem to be perfect for applying larger cosmetic actives as skin barrier is significantly more open and permeable in the evening hours. Further studies should assess this phenomenon in more detail.

• Literatur

• 1 Taube H. Die Reservoirkapazität des Stratum corneum – ein Vergleich von vier Methoden in vitro. Berlin: Klinik für Dermatologie, Venerologie und Allergologie der Medizinischen Fakultät Charité; 2011: 8-80
• 2 Denda M, Tsuchiya T. Barrier recovery rate varies time-dependently in human skin. Br J Dermatol 2000; 142: 881-884
• 3 Yosipovitch G, Xiong GL, Haus E. et al. Time-dependent variations of the skin barrier function in humans: transepidermal water loss, stratum corneum hydration, skin surface pH, and skin temperature. J Invest Dermatol 1998; 110: 20-23
• 4 Yosipovitch G, Sackett-Lundeen L, Goon A. et al. Circadian and ultradian (12 h) variations of skin blood flow and barrier function in non-irritated and irritated skin-effect of topical cortosteroids. J Invest Dermatol 2004; 122: 824-829
• 5 Le Fur I, Reinberg A, Lopez S. et al. Analysis of circadian and ultradian rhythms of skin surface properties of face and forearm of healthy women. J Invest Dermatol 2001; 117: 718-724
• 6 Kindler N. Extrinsische und intrinsische Formen der Hautalterung – Vergleich klassischer Untersuchungsverfahren mit der Multiphotonen-Lasertomographie. Universität Jena; 2012: 13-71
• 7 Fullerton A, Fischer T, Lahti A. et al. Guidelines for measurement of skin colour and erythema. A report from the Standardization Group of the European Society of Contact Dermatitis. Contact Dermatitis 1996; 35: 1-10
• 8 Pierard GE. EEMCO guidance for the assessment of skin colour. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol 1998; 10: 1-11
• 9 Tupker RA, Pinnagoda J, Coenraads PJ. et al. Susceptibility to irritants: role of barrier function, skin dryness and history of atopic dermatitis. Br J Dermatol 1990; 123: 199-205
• 10 Pinnagoda J, Tupker RA, Agner T. et al. Guidelines for transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurement. A report from the Standardization Group of the European Society of Contact Dermatitis. Contact Dermatitis 1990; 22: 164-178
• 11 Barel A, Clarys P. Measurement of epidermal capacitance. In: Serup J, Jemec G, Grove G. ed. Handbook of non-invasive Methods and Skin. Informa Healthcare; 2006: 337-344
• 12 Tagami H, Ohi M, Iwatsuki K. et al. Evaluation of the skin surface hydration in vivo by electrical measurement. J Invest Dermatol 1980; 75: 500-507
• 13 Lübberding S, Krüger N, Kerscher M. Mechanical properties of human skin in vivo: a comparative evaluation in 300 men and women. Skin Res Technol 2014; 20: 127-135
• 14 Krüger N, Lübberding S, Oltmer M. et al. Age-related changes in skin mechanical properties: A quantitative evaluation of 120 female subjects. Skin Res Technol 2011; 17: 141-148
• 15 Ahn S, Kim S, Lee H. et al. Correlation between a Cutometer and quantitative evaluation using more topography in age-related skin elasticity. Skin Res Technol 2007; 13: 280-284
• 16 Information und Gebrauchsanweisung zum Cutometer MPA 580 und der Software Cutometer MPA Q. Köln: Courage Khazaka electronic GmbH; 2009
• 17 Korting HC, Hübner K, Greiner K. et al. Differencies in the skin surfaces pH and bacterial microflora due to the longterm application of synthetic detergent preparations of pH 5,5 and pH 7,0. Acta Dermato Venereol 1990; 70: 429-431
• 18 O’goshi K. Optical measurement of sebum excretion using opalescent film imprint. The Sebumeter. In: Serup J, Jemec G, Grove G. ed. Handbook of Non-Invasive Methods and the Skin. Informa Healthcare; 2006: 841-846
• 19 Spruit D. The interference of some substances with the water vapour loss of human skin. Dermatologica 1971; 142: 89-92
• 20 Aschoff J. Die innere Uhr des Menschen. Schriften der Carl Friedrich von Siemens Stiftung. München: Die Zeit 1983; 98: 133-144
• 21 Rogiers V. Transepidermal water loss measurements in patch test assessment: the need for standardisation. Curr Probl Dermato 1995; 23: 152-158
• 22 Reinberg A, Koulbanis C, Soudant E. et al. Day-night differences in effects of cosmetic treatments on facial skin. Effects on facial skin appearance. Chronobiol International 1990; 7: 69-79
• 23 Hadi H, Awadh AI, Hanif NM. et al. The investigation of the skin biophysical measurements focusing on daily activities, skin care habits, and gender differences. Skin Res Technol 2016; 22: 247-254
• 24 Tsukahara K, Takema Y, Moriwaki S. et al. Dermal fluid translocation is an important determinant of the diurnal variation in human skin thickness. Br J Dermatol 2001; 145: 590-596
• 25 Verschoore M, Poncet M, Krebs B. et al. Circadian variations in the number of actively secreting sebaceous follicles and androgen circadian rhythms. Chronobiol Int 2009; 5: 349-359
• 26 Burton JL, Cuncliffe WJ, Shuster S. Circadiane rhythm in sebum excretion. Br J Derm 1970; 82: 497-500
• 27 Lübberding S, Krueger N, Kerscher M. Skin physiology in men and women: in vivo evaluation of 300 people including TEWL, SC hydration, sebum content and skin surface pH. University of Hamburg. Int J Cosmetic Sci 2013; 35: 477-483
• 28 Piérard-Franchimont C, Piérard GE, Kligman A. Seasonal modulation of sebum excretion. Dermatologica 1990; 181: 21-22
• 29 Cunliffe WJ, Burton JL, Shuster S. The effect of local temperature variations on the sebum excretion rate. Br J Dermatol 1970; 83: 650-654