Pflanzliche Ceramide zur kosmetischen Anwendung

Zusammenfassung

Die Bedeutung von Ceramiden als aktive Inhaltstoffe in kosmetischen Präparaten hat in den letzten Jahren erheblich an Bedeutung gewonnen. Im dermatologischen Kontext werden Ceramide meist in Kombination mit anderen Lipiden sowie weiteren kosmetischen Wirkstoffen in Präparaten zur Barriereprotektion und -regeneration bei chronisch-entzündlichen Hauterkrankungen bzw. bei Diabetes mellitus oder Altershaut eingesetzt. Da die Herstellung von synthetischen Ceramiden sehr kostenintensiv ist, kann die Verwendung von pflanzlichen Ceramiden mit vergleichbaren physikochemischen Eigenschaften eine Alternative darstellen. Neuere Verfahren ermöglichen die Glykosylierung dieser aus Pflanzenextrakten isolierten Ceramide und deren Einsatz in kosmetischen Zubereitungen. Weitere Untersuchungen müssen klären, ob sich glykosylierte pflanzliche Ceramide in die natürlichen Lipidmembranen im Stratum corneum integrieren und welche funktionellen Auswirkungen sie auf die Barrierefunktion haben. Die bisherigen Daten begründen ein großes Potenzial pflanzlicher Ceramide für die Barriere-protektive Anwendung in kosmetischen Präparaten.

Abstract

Ceramides as active ingredients in cosmetic preparations became more and more important in recent years. In dermatology, ceramides combined with other lipids and other cosmetic ingredients are mostly used in preparations for barrier protection and regeneration in patients with chronic inflammatory skin conditions, diabetes mellitus, or for aging skin. Since the production of synthetic ceramides is very expensive, the use of plant-based ceramides with comparable physico-chemical properties may be an alternative. New methods allow the glycosylation of these ceramides extracted from plants and their application in cosmetic preparations. Further investigations are needed to prove the integration of glycosylated plant-based ceramides into the natural lipid membranes of the stratum corneum, and to determine the functional effects on the skin barrier. Existing data predicate a great potential of plant-based ceramides for barrier protective cosmetic preparations.

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